Haugland Bouldering

Reunion island

2011-08-21T20:33:00.007+03:00

This isn't an island at all but we brushed it at the same time as the college reunion so that's how the main attraction got its name. This small wall is the continuation of Ann Macoun's garden so find that and go downhill into the woods. Its not very high but it doesn't need to be.Reunion 7a+ (Photo : Per)
This may even be slightly harder but lets wait and see. The obvious traverse line. Start sitting on the left (Haugland 3 star classic)
Åsmunds sit down 5
The right arete with a low start.

My Garden

2010-08-19T21:18:00.006+03:00

This boulder is one of the reasons we built the house here. The only problem is that its lies above the septic tank which can be a bit smelly at times however the quality of the problems is superb. all very slopy.
1. Septic Sid 7a+
2. Ranseed 6c
3. Kloak and dagger 6b

New Area

2009-06-07T20:42:00.002+03:00

Last year we developed a whole new area, hundreds of boulders but not many that are good enough to bother with. Will update blog one day but until then here is a video.

Storåsen

2007-09-27T13:23:00.000+03:00

Two new boulders, one on the way up one on the way own. Per found the down one whilst investigating a new path, it's quality!
Here's storåsen up.

And storåsen down

Wow!

Raudbua

2006-08-01T22:15:00.001+03:00

Well I don't know if anyone is interested (you can leave comments you know) but I have been developing a new boulder. I first saw this one about 6 years ago but after pulling a small flake off dismissed it as rotten. Well it certainly isn't rotten, after a fair bit of cleaning it's looking like a superb addition to the Haugland circuit. To get there park as for Lipman but follow the path that is the continuation of the road. After 15min the path goes steeply down, the boulder is to the right of the path in a pine wood So far only four problems has been completed but some others are being worked on.0. Chana Dale 6a
The hanging arete, not very good but had to be done.
1. Salvador Dale 7a+
Called this because the boulder looks like something out of a Salvador Dali painting. Climbs the biggest wall. Start on a small side pull out to the left head for the obvious sloper and up.
1a. Salvador Direct 7b
Shoulder press and catch sidepull with left.
2. Dale Lama (Project)
The wall left of Salvador using the mono and sidepull to start.
3. Thor Heyerdale (project)
The short groove to the left from a sitdown start.
0. Dilly Dale 6c
Up from start of Benny sitdown, using everything
2.Benny Rivedale 6c (photo)
Start on the black ripple and up to the hanging sloper, use hold on right arete to gain the top.
Variation 1 6c
From the black ripples throw a heel out left and reach for the crimp in the corner and up.
1. Benny Sit down (full) 7b+
Start out left from the good side pull up and travers the slopers into Benny.
1a Benny Sit down (short) 7b (photo)
Start from the crimp and side pull right of the full sit down, slap the sloper and right to benny.
1b Benny sit down direct 7a+
Sit down just right of the black ripple pull up on two small holds and slap to the ripple with the left hand.
3. Roald Dale 6c
Use the poor flake to get your feet over the lip and reach the slot in the corner.
4. Chippendale (project)
Hmm!

Introduction

2006-06-12T13:04:00.000+03:00

This blog is more of an interactive bouldering guide than a blog. In the true nature of a blog it should be continualy changing, being updated and, if anyone ever visits the boulders apart from Per and I, comments will be added. Bouldering began here about 11 years ago when I moved to Norway, ever since that day I have been scouring the hills and woods for the classic line and I think I've found some. Haugland is along the fjord from Flekke in Sunnfjord (the fjord is called flekkefjord though not sunnfjord that doesn't actualy exist). Below is a photo courtesy of Google Earth showing the location of the boulders.

The other buildings in the picture are the Red Cross Nordic United World College and The Haugland Rehabilitation Centre .
A closer map of each boulder will be given in each section followed by a topo and a list of routes. The first ascentionist isn't listed unless it wasn't me :-)

Igelkjøn

2006-06-12T13:00:00.007+03:00

This is the first boulder you get to along the road from Flekke. After about a km you pass an orange farm on the left, then a road leading to a fine house with a tennis court, then a rough track, drive down this until you get to a steep parking place on the right. You can see the place through the trees.Walk back through the trees and you'll see a bulging wall split by a crack, this is it.

1. Kanterberry 7a
Traverse the edge from a sit down start without the crystal.

2. Flekke Joker 7a+ (photo: Jaran)
From a sit down start reach up for the crimp and lurch to the edge, up this.

3. Klaus' Traverse 7a (Photo:Chris)
Starting from the blocky hold traverse left jump for the edge then sneak round the corner.

4. Bachens Direct 7a+
As for 3 but from the edge reach straight up for a sloper with your right hand.

5. Igelkjøn Left 7a (Photo: Per)
From a low side pull reach the rounded edge of the roof, reach a good crimp them right to a pinch. Now reach left to two slopers and up.

6. Igelkjøn 6c
Climb the line of the obvious crack (not repeated since hold fell off).

7. Igelkjøn Right 7a+ (Photo: Chris)
From the pinch on 5 traverse right on sloping holds to a big pocket

8. Traverse 7a
Start from a low side pull and traverse left to join and up 3.

1. Bonder Romantic 7a+ (Photo:Per)
Stretch up to the sharp side pull with the left hand, feet up and launch for the bucket out right, straight up.

2. Patrick Mono 6c
Start from the large flatty and go up to a mono, reach high up left and into 1.

The Slottery

2006-06-12T13:00:00.001+03:00

This place is only really worth visiting if it's raining, it pretty much never gets wet. To get there park as for Ann Macouns Garden, walk through the car paRk past all the houses, follow a footpath from the end of the carpark, the boulder is in about 50m. Beyond this is a cliff, the quality isn't brilliant but there a couple of OK routes ranging from 5 to 7c+. There's a topo hanging at the bottom somewhere.
DON'T FALL OFF THE LEDGE!

1. 1st Slot 6a
Reach the top from the first slot
2. The National Slottery 7a+
Traverse the slots to the sloping line of holds, up at the end of these
3. Slot Machine 7a+
Lie down start from pinch to crimp to slot 1 and 2 and the top
4. Slotted 6c
To the top from the 2nd and 3rd slot, with or without foothold to the right, static without is the hardest variant.
There are some more problems to the right including a hideous mantle.

The Slaboratory

2006-06-12T13:00:00.000+03:00

There aren't any problems here yet but there should be, although maybe this slab below is impossible.

This one isn't though. It's right next to the road on the way down to haugland. A bit public but one quiet day we'll get round to it.

Ann Macouns Garden

2006-06-12T12:59:00.001+03:00

Drive to haugland from flekke, after about 2.5km the road starts to go steeply down, there are some different coloured houses on the left, park here. This is where the UWC teachers live. Follow a path past the end orangey house (I'm colour blind), this leads to some stone steps leading down through some small trees, follow this rightwards, you will see the boulder after a few meters.

The area on the right was cleaned by Per hence all the per names. The area is named after the first rektors wife (the rektors garden is above) she once tipped some garden rubbish on me when I was sitting on my pad. The problems generaly end by traversing into the central scoop and jumping down.

1. Garden Rubbish 6a
Up via the small pocket, not done very often so a bit dirty.
2. Compost 6a
Up via the pocket using a big crystal for your feet (don't break it).
3. Beleif Høegh 7a
Believe that you can hang the two brush marks and snatch the round pocket and into the break.
4. Ann Macoun 6a
Reach the round pocket from the ground and up (sit start will be epic!).
5. The professor 7b
Sitdown, make a hard pull to the crystal grit your teeth and split your finger (tape advised). First ascent; Klaus Sandvik

1. The scoop 5b
Press into the scoop.
2. Slope John Paul 3rd 7b
Almost as good as it's name. from sitting, use the sloping area to reach the jug on the right (there are three "good" bits hence the 3rd, done just after the death of the 2nd)
3. Perfect 6c (Photo: Per)
From a sit lurch out right to the sloper then up to the jug without matching.
4. Perverse 7a (Photo: Per)
From the flake reach sloper of 3, same finish but this time matching is allowed.
5. Permuation 1 5b
up to good hold,top out.
6. Permutation 2 5b
Up to pocket, top out
7. Permuation 3 6a
Up to slope, top out to right

Here is a video of Chris failing on some of the problems

Rope slide

2006-06-12T12:58:00.001+03:00

To get to this boulder first find Ann Macoun's. The walk towards the ruined house and beyond you will end up on top of it. This isn't climbed on much and needs brushing again.

1. Anton Mossyman 7a+
The slab via the obvious undercut (High ball)

2. Strirling Moss 6c
The slab via the obvious crimps at half height

3. Mossless 5a

1. Arete 4c?

2. Kantarell 7a
Start sitting under the arete, use the sloping arete to reach into the break, climb the arete without the big flat hold round to the left.

3. Pig Sopp 7a
Start sitting, use the crystals to climb onto the upper slab.

4. Trach Kantarell 6c
Traverse the break

The Jewelery

2006-06-12T12:57:00.001+03:00

To get to the jewelery drive down to the fjord past theUWC and haugland centre. Park by a mock up of an old boat. Walk over the bridge and as soon as you are on the island follow a path rightwards along the edge of the fjord. The boulder is sitting in a clearing next to the water.

Here is also a good place to swim. Just a couple of problems here but they are good ones and the setting is beautiful.

1. The Necklace 6b
Traverse the edge of the boulder starting as low as possible on the left. many eliminates possible.

2. The pearl 7b
Start from an undercut for the right and a pocket for the left pull and snatch. Only one move but very powerful.

3. The crown 7a+(Photo)
Start sitting, share the first crimp, up to the second crimp with the right, out to the third with the left then again for a sloper. Top out.

4. The Coronet 6c
Same start but second crimp with the left hand reach out right and up.

Holten Hang

2006-06-12T12:57:00.000+03:00

Drive to the end of the road that goes out along the fjord from Haugland. Park and follow the plastic markers up the hill to the right. After about 5min you will see the boulder, there is a signpost to Holten pointing at it.

1. The Holten Hang 7a

From the starting jug reach all the way to the obvious pocket, continue using both breaks to a slot a little bit higher. Use this to reach the finishing hold up and right. Easier and slightly more pleasant if you use the two crimps between the starting jug and the pocket.

2. Holten Low 7a+

From the starting jug hang the crimps and drop down to the lower traverse line. Follow this to the otherside. Use the blocks at the end for your feet, get a deep knee lock and reach the finish.

3. Holten High 7a+

As for 1. but only use the top break.

Lipman Boulder

2006-06-12T12:56:00.001+03:00

This one is quite difficult to find. Park at the end of the road and follow the plastic markers (they are little strips of plastic bag tied to trees) through the trees. This will take you winding up the hillside past the Holten Hang. After about 10min you will get to a small pine forest, here it is.
1. Svarabakti Vokal 5c
Per did this one hence the Norwegian name. Climb the slab on the left finishing straight up.

1. Scoop Day 6b
into the scoop, left and up
2.Scoop Doggy 7a (Photo)
From the firstpocket on 1. reach the lip of the roof, one move right and up.
3. Flake placid 6a
Use the flake to launch up to the lip then right to the slot.
4. Hip Up 6c
Traverse in to the slot of 3 from the right.
5. Maureen Lipman 7a
Start up scoop day and traverse all the way right to a very good slot and up. A mega classic!